The beauty of the ocean waves.Waves arise for various reasons: due to the wind, the passage of a ship, the fall of an object into the water, the attraction of the moon, an earthquake, an eruption of an underwater volcano or a landslide.
But if they are caused by liquid displacement from a passing ship or a falling object, the attraction of the Moon and the Sun contributes to the appearance of tidal waves, and an earthquake can cause a tsunami, it is more difficult with wind.Here the matter is in the movement of air - there are chaotic vortices in it, small at the surface and large in the distance.
When they pass over a reservoir, the pressure decreases, and a bulge forms on its surface.
The wind begins to push harder on its windward slope, which leads to a pressure difference, and because of it, the air movement begins to "pump" energy into the wave.
In this case, the speed of the wave is proportional to its length, that is, the longer the length, the greater the speed.
Wave height and wave length are related.
Therefore, when the wind accelerates the wave, its speed increases, therefore, the length and height increase.
True, the closer the wave speed is to the wind speed, the less energy the wind can give to the wave.
If their speeds are equal, the wind does not transfer energy to the wave at all.sea.
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